Trouble w/ SBE?

[Sivart]

I realize this isn't an avery product, but I know that a lot of you use them. Hoping for some advice.

My SBE won't always cycle a new round into the chamber, and sometimes the new shell gets stuck half way out the magazine.

The gun is completely clean and lightly oiled w/ synthetic gun oil. I've taken the recoil spring, and the mag spring out and re oiled. The gun was sent back to benelli this summer, because I had this same problem. I got the gun back, and after about 10 rounds, I have the same problem again. Really frustrated.....Travis

[David Rearick]

Interesting, have you tried switching loads? Sometimes for an unknown reason individual guns won't cycle certain shells.

[Iambenelliman]

I work at a gun shop and we see this problem alot. Your recoil spring is in good condition? When we encounter this problem the first thing we do is put in a sure-cycle spring system. Your spring might be loosing its tension or a little rust may be built up on the inside of the spring. Try this out, I think it should help.

[George Kuhns]

I'd say to toss it and by an extrema 2.

[quackquackboom]

I had the same problem, even after installing a Sure-Cycle assembly. The gun was kept very clean. Do you have a LimbSaver pad on the SBE? I have heard of problems in older SBE's caused by a lack of recoil shock. In fact, that might have been what was wrong with mine.

The problem was fixed by selling the gun to a buyer informed of the situation. Sorry I am not more help--I was frustrated just like you!

[David Rearick]

After working in sporting goods for 10 years, I have also seen the "soft soulder" problem with every type of automatic. It can be caused by either the recoil pad not giving the gun enough resistance to cycle the action or the shooter.

[Travis Mueller]

Try stretching your spring out a bit. This may help in pushing those shells out a little better. This has worked for many Benellis I have seen.

[Jimmy Robinson]

posted 11-13-2006 08:24 PM
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I have seen many posts about jamming, cycling, rotating bolt problems etc. Let me start with a writing I previously posted and then some new finding that may help many Benelli owners.

Previously posted:
Benelli M1, SBE, and Montefeltro Recoil Spring & Maintained tips.


My experience with Benelli Autoloaders is quite extensive. I purchased one of the original Montefeltro’s imported by H&K and have worked on and performed year end maintenance on over 200 guns models listed above and the Nova.

I’m sure everyone knows how to “field strip” your gun, I will not cover this however I will add what may be of value from my experience. What most Benelli owners do not know about the gun they own is, the vital component listed as the recoil spring and the recoil spring tube. This will be the focus of this writing because it is not covered in the Benelli owner’s manual. With the knowledge and understanding of this maintenance and process, the problems experienced in cycling issues could be completely eliminated. It is vital that your recoil spring maintenance be performed on a yearly basis, the exceptions would be low usage or submerged gun.

Removing the Butt Plate requires a thin shaft Philips screwdriver with a number #2 head. Apply oil to the Butt Plate screw holes before inserting the screw driver. This will minimize the damage to the rubber. Remove Butt Plate. Insert a 13mm deep socket in the back of the stock and remove the stock retaining nut, this nut will need to be torque to 22 lbs upon assembly. The stock assembly and drop change shim will come off. To remove the recoil spring, the stock retaining nut SCREW will need to be removed from the recoil spring tube. This will require a 17mm closed end wrench. Older Benelli’s will not have the nut attached to the stock retaining screw; this will make the process more difficult. To remove the stock retaining nut screw, my experience has been in most circumstances heat will be required to address the locktite which has been applied to the screw from the factory. Place the receiver assembly in a vise just tight enough to hold the receiver be careful not to crush receiver. Protect the receiver to eliminate damage. Heat the stock retaining nut screw near the recoil spring tube with a Bic type lighter for up to one minute. This is all I ever needed to slacken the locktite. Then place your closed end wrench on the nut and loosen. Care must be taken when removing the screw the assembly is under pressure of the recoil spring. The recoil spring ready to be removed and the recoil spring plunger. Upon assembly do not use locktite, this processed should be performed annually anyway.
Concluding, the recoil tube should be cleaned with gun scrub and a 20 gauge wire brush inserted through the tube. The recoil spring should be cleaned as well. My experience with the factory recoil spring has been less than desired. I have replaced factory springs after one year on M1’s model number 11045 serial numbers M400240 and M400239. The original Montefeltro springs seemed better, lasting 10 years. I replace the recoil spring with Wolff 25% extra power spring. Keep in mind these are hunting guns and do not shoot low base 7/8 0z shells. Wolff 25% reduced power spring works well for light loads. You will know when your spring needs to be replaced when the bolt assembly does not rotate to the closed position after shooting the first shell, when your gun is properly maintained. This failure increases when shooting in cold weather and shooting directly overhead, when the bolt faces the force of gravity. Assembly of the recoil spring requires minimal usage of synthetic spray lube, just enough to lubricate and protect metal. Excessive oil will collect more powder residue. Synthetic will minimize congeal at low temps.
When reassembling the gun it would be helpful to install your trigger assembly, this will make the alignment of the stock easier. The bolt assembly should be kept clean. I use a few drops of Break Free inside of the receiver assembly on the bolt rails, this should be all the lubricant you will need after cleaning the assembly with gun scrub. A “dry” clean magazine assembly, dry meaning no lubricant, will create the same symptom of the bolt assembly not rotating closed in cold weather as well. This cost me a double on Canada Geese this year because I was to lazy to field strip my Benelli and lube it properly when encountering cold weather. The field striping and lubricating noted above can be performed in a few minutes after a few repetitions.

I am hopeful this summary may be helpful. Performing complete and well timed maintenance will go a long way towards keeping your Benelli in great operating condition. Nothing is worse than a semi autoloading shotgun that becomes a single shot. I wish I would have had this information when I purchased my first Benelli.

New Findings:

After completing cleaning and spring replacement I experienced Benelli owners indicate they are having cycling problems. I tell them to return the gun and the exact shells they are shooting thru the gun. My findings are very consistant. 1. Owners are shooting 7/8 oz shot in their Benelli's with new Wolff 25% increase recoil springs installed or their shells are swelled. I install Wolff 25% increase recoil spring in all hunting guns. Remember this spring will not shoot 7/8 oz. shells particularily when the temperature drops. 2. The big discovery has been shells that are swelled or slightly out of tolerance. I have found no brands better than others. Shells swell if they sit in a wet shell belt for any amount of time. Some shells are simply fatter than others. Here is a test everyone can do. Remove you barrel from the reciever. Point the muzzle towards the ground. Drop a shell into the barrel. The shells should fall all the way to the end of the brass. Then turn the barrel upside down. The shell should freely fall out of the barrel. All of the guns returned with cycling problems fire problem free with proper diameter shells down to minus 20 degrees. Remember the colder the temperature the greater cycling problems occur.

Here is what you can do, check all of your shells if you are experiencing cycling issue's after the above described maintainence. If your shells are to fat and don't fall into the barrel as described above, sand them slightly until they do or send them to me, i'll take em'. When purchasing new shells take your barrel with and check which brands fall into the barrel the best.

I hope this will help everyone. I am noting more swelled shell issue's in the past two years.

Let me know if I can help.

[Tony Vandemore]

If you are looking to sell it to an informed buyer let me know!

[Sun Drop]

toss it and buy a used Auto-5

[spud]

i've had a similar prob with a new stoeger m-2000. i had alot of shell that would not chamber...mostly was the 3rd shot, i swithed brands of shells arround and there was no difference.
Here is what i was experiencing, the shell wasn't chambered, but when opened, the shell would be laying on the carrier.......had me puzzled. target loads would cycle fine........ gave me a headache so i sent it back to stoeger through the place i bought it from here in Canada.........i am just hoping now that it comes back fixed.

[retriever]

I have had the same problem with the older style Benelli. It was a bad ejector in my case, it happened more than once to me.

[Anthya]

I spoke w/ a Benelli rep at the SHOT show and he said it's better to have a well oiled SBE that a clean dry one.

SBE work best well lubed. Breakfree CLP works very well. In extermely cold weather -5 F. I used to have the chambering problems until I switched to Breakfree.

Good shooting.

[John M]

I don't know if this got mentioned or not but you must use a 1 1/8 ounce load in all inertia operated guns. I know you probably do this just thought I would throw this out just in case some people do not know that.

[quacksmacker]

I had that problem for a while and I just started running a hotter load. The extra umph cycles the shell and to fix your magazine problem, drop a shell into the elevator by hitting the magazine release in front of the trigger. And, if you sell it what ever you do, don't buy an Xtrema 2. Several of my huntin' buddies have them and are having problems just like the one you are having now. If you do sell it I would recommend a Benelli Cordoba (THIS GUN IS SWEEEEEEEEEEET!) Or the new remington 105 CTi. It ejects and loads shells in the bottom! My brother has a gun shop and He knows a benelli inside and out and his cousin that works with him is a gunsmith (Best I have ever Known) give them a call! They do awesome work and know their stuff!

Shooters Alley

Mark Spader
(605) 428-GUNS (4867)

[JD Ourada]

I'd say to toss it and by an extrema 2.

Uh HuH, Thats what I would do If I had an expensive gun!!!

[chad belding]

Jimmy,

Thank you very much for the in depth instructions. My new SBE II has been doing this for about a month now and it has been wearing me out. I am going to perform your drills tomorrow and hopefully fix the problem. Thank you very much again.

Good Hunting!

Chad Belding
Avery Outdoors

[honker_talk]

thats what you guys get for not buying beretta. I work at a gun shop to and i know every part of the benellis the ratio of guns that come in for repair are beretta 15% and benellis 85%.

[Cryfowl]

My wife just bought me a SBE II last week, much to my disappointment. I owned a SBE and had nothing but trouble with it and it completely failed on me, (would not cycle any shells) within two months of buying it. The recoil spring and tube completely coroded away.
So, my wife asks me what I want for Xmas and I tell her a Beretta Xtrema II. Owned an Xtrema and loved it! So, she goes to the gun shop and comes back with the Benelli SBE II. She was so proud of her purchase, I didn't have the heart to tell her. So, I do a little reading on the gun and it is supposedly a big improvement over the SBE, so I decide to give it a try. I have taken it out 4 times. Twice on the salt water and twice on fresh. The first two trips went without a hitch. On the third trip, I began having the same failures you talked about, the gun not loading the live shell. Went out yesterday and it seems that about every time I would try and get a volley off, the second round would not feed into the chamber. I shoot 3" 1 1/8 oz BB at 1550 fps, so the low recoil isn't the issue.
I have cleaned this gun every night after using it and carry it around in a padded gun case, just because of the money it cost my wife. I noticed yesterday that there is already rust pitting on the trigger. I have never experienced this with any other brand of shotgun, although other brands seem to coat their triggers with something that makes them more resiliant to rust. The SBE II trigger looks like it is just painted steel.
The break in period for the gun is 600 rds, so I will wait til I have reached that before saying yeah or neah on the gun. I'm undecided at this point.

[hoop]

What I have experienced with a lot of the auto loaders, is that people don't take the time to break the gun in properly.... I have sold guns, and always advised people to shoot several hundred light loads through the gun to break it in..... One thing I always noticed when people had this problem was that they took the gun right out of the box, and started pumping 3'' mags through it...... I don't know how many Browning Golds I saw come back, with the spring over streched..... If that was the case, I always suggested the sure-cyle spring system. But the best case scenario is to go ahead and shoot a couple hundred light loads through it and break it in properly...

Good luck!

just my .02 cents.....

[Tony Vandemore]

There are going to be problems with any gun out there, be it a Benelli, Beretta, Remington, Winchester, Browning, etc. NOTHING that is produced in this world today has 100% quality control. That being said, I must just be lucky with both my older SBE's. I shot over 8 cases last year through the one SBE and never had a problem. I clean the gun in August, then do nothing but douse it with oil throughout the season. As some have seen, it is so full of sand and dirt most of the time it is ridiculous. Then again, it's just a tool! From 15 below to 90 degrees it never missed a lick.

[GBuck]

hoop, I seem to recall the manual for the SBE II stating that heavy loads should be used for break-in. :confused:

[Cryfowl]

Tony---U r one lucky man!!! To have two of the older SBE and never have a problem with either, that is amazing!! I loved my SBE, when it worked! It just didn't work for very long. I blame the quick failure partially on the Coastal Weather we have here. It rained 90+ out of 120 days the year I had the SBE and hunting salt water is tough on any gun. We currently just set an all time record with rainfall for any November on record, so "WET" is the environment I live in, to say the least. I guess that's why they call it a rainforrest! Anyhow, I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the SBE II will be a better gun than my previous version.

[Dirt_Bag]

That is the reason to use a 870!! no water,dirt little rust will stop it from cycling just fine. and never shoot remington shells in a remington semi auto!! why do you think there has been no real change in the 870 except for the chamber size?? who cares how far a gun ejects shells, the key is not to jam!! :rolleyes:

[Dirt_Bag]

Cryfowl:: PEOPLE FROM WASHINGTON DONT TAN, WE RUST !!!! :D :D

[quacksmacker]

To fix the rust part....just take the time to wipe your gun down with WD-40 or Break Free or something! That will take care of your rust problem and, if the gun starts jamming and not cycling, take it ALL THE WAY apart. I mean take the bolt apart, The trigger group everything! I do this right when I get home from buying the gun and I have never had problems with my SBE, my M1 SUPER 90, My dad's M2, My brother's M1, no problems ever just because of that super duper cleaning session! The only gun we have had problems is my old Beretta. Benelli is the way to go if, you keep them Fairly clean and use synthetic oil! Dont use gunky stuff because it collects dirt alot more and when it is cold it freezes or just gets super sticky and wont let the gun cycle.