Bilge pump decoy

[CRAWLER]

I would like to try to build a bilge pump feeder decoy. Any plans or links to plans would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[Iambenelliman]

Chris, I think I may have them, I'll take a look for ya, and let you know.

[Raymond]

Chris, I think I may have them, I'll take a look for ya, and let you know.
Hey jon, can you please shoot me a e-mail with the info too?
Thanks, Ray
rdrilingas@winter-technologies.com

[Iambenelliman]

Guys I looked everywhere and I don't know what I did with them. I bought them off e-bay about 4 years ago, and I tried to do a search, but I couldn't find them back

[CRAWLER]

I found this on another forum. I'm going to give it a shot. Jon did you make one, does it work pretty well. Or not worth the time.





**Official** How to build a Duck Butt Thread

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I built one following the general principles established in some of the prior threads and it works great. I am not trying to take credit here, some have asked for a step by step post, so here it is.

Materials Needed:
1 Feeder Decoy
1 Bilge Pump (Attwood 500 GPH seems to be preferred and cheap, I paid under $10 at Wal-Mart)
1 12 volt battery (I used a lawn mower battery from Wal-Mart, $14 + $5 recycle fee)
Coated Wire (I got 100' of 12 gauge for $7)- the more flexible it is the easier it is to put out and pick up the decoy
1 "flasher" check the automotive section of Wal-Mart or a hardware store
2 clips (like giant alligator clips) to attach wire to battery terminals
Switch (optional)
Wire connectors
Silicone or something to seal the connections (don't need much)
2 Screws to mount bilge pump housing
1' of 3/8" diameter flexible plastic tubing (should fit snug over bilge pump "out nozzle")


First, mount the bilge pump housing/mount to the bottom of the feeder decoy using the two screws. I recommend drilling a pilot hole for each screw. You may want to add some glue/silicone to the holes to help the screws hold.

Now, if you have one piece of wire, divide it into two equal lengths (one to go to the decoy from the battery and one to go from the decoy to the battery)

Pick one section of wire and connect it to the black "large clip" .
Connect the other end of this wire to the black wire of the bilge pump.

You should now have the black large clip connected to one end of a piece of wire and the other end of the same piece of wire should be connected to the black wire coming out of the bilge pump. You should be using the wire connectors to splice the wire-wire connections, this way once you are done you will be able to fill the connector with silicone to seal the connection. For this reason it is also important not to strip off too much insulation (the wire outside of the connector should be coated)

Now take the other piece of wire that you have not connected to anything yet and connect it to the other wire coming out of the bilge pump. Again, use the wire connectors for this so you can waterproof this connection.

Now take the loose end of the wire you have and cut off an 18" piece. Connect 1 end of the long piece to the flasher and connect 1 end of the short piece to the flasher. Now connect the only loose end you have (the other end of the short piece of wire) to the red "large clip".

The hard part of the Duck butt is complete. Take the piece of flexible tubing and slide it over the output of the bilge pump. Bend the tubbing to the output of the pump will be directed upwards, it should be touching the underbelly of the decoy. Use a zip tie or string to secure the tube in this manner.


Now is the fun part, test your Duck Butt by filling up a tub of water and WHILE KEEPING THE CONNECTIONS DRY place the pump in the water and attach the clips to the coresponding battery terminals (red to positive, black to negative). You do not want to run the pump out of water, that will cause it to break.

The pump should cycle on and off, spitting water up towards the sky and make the butt dance all around. You may need to trim the plastic tubing, I trimmed mine so it is just under the surface of the water.

Once everything is working, disconnect the battery and ensure all connections are dry, then seal the wire-wire splices with silicone.

Good luck!

[Jon Bradford]

If you can keep them working these help out quite abit on still water days!! Theres nothing worse than still water!!

[Iambenelliman]

Chris, I made one and used it in a couple of the timber hunts and they keep the water moving. It worth a shot.